|Posted by Herron Farms on December 3, 2019 at 3:30 PM||comments (0)|
christopher nicholas herron stole my"Tim Herron" nest egg last week from mountain valley bank also known as piedmont bank. He is 32 years old and took advantage of the trust i let him have 20 years ago, I mistakenly put his name along with mine"incase anything happened to me" savings account. Never did he put a single dime in this account and it had been dormid with 5.00 in it for at least 10 years, in which time he joined the army and flunked out of ranger school so many times he finally got a medical discharge. Got married had a son. still he found the time to drive 500 miles and withdraw all of the nest egg that my wife and i had put in there. Then closed the account. Not much resource unless i take him to small claims court, and i still might.He is mad at me for not letting him control my life. Be very careful if you come across him, if he will do this to his own father, imagine what he is capable of to strangers. He is the son of Sonja Lee Burdett.
|Posted by Herron Farms on April 9, 2014 at 7:45 PM||comments (0)|
African Nightcrawlers Eudrilus Eugeniae will start shipping monday,
It has been a very long and cold winter, I and many other have lost lots of worms due to the extreem cold.
It set records at many place's including here. 2 deg. one morning, for metro Atlanta, that is unherd of.
the trucks carring the mail from post to post are not heated, and it turned out to be the weekest link, even with heat packs and insulated box's.
5 good freinds and fellow worm farmers, very large. just threw in the towel, so, this should make for an interesting year, to say the least.
I have had the phone ringing off the hook, and the email is unbearable. worm grower's and supplyers everywhere, are looking for more souce's. people wanting 400 pounds per week, 100 pounds per week and it dosent seem to stop. thats a lot of worms folks..........with that much demand, and so little supply, I had no choice but to raise my price's......I am sorry, but it cost me more to replenish my stock as well.
with the new MMJ market, it has opened people's eyes, to how good worm tea, and casting's realy are.
worms, realy do, eat my garbage, I havent paid for, or needed garbage pick up for over 4 years now. it hit 36.00 per month, that was it......thats about 450.00 per year....instead, I feed my worms my garbage.
|Posted by Herron Farms on October 9, 2013 at 3:50 AM||comments (0)|
also take a look at http://herronfarms.wordpress.com/
|Posted by Herron Farms on March 23, 2013 at 6:10 AM||comments (0)|
I was out in the wildcat creek tract the other day, and came across a dog......Not just any dog, this dog was tied to a log, right at the exact spot my gps had led me, I was on a totally different quest. The dog was left, tied to a huge log, but got loose, there was an empty bag of dog food (new bag) close to her, no water. knowing better, I brought her home with me anyway. Turns out to be one of the best dog's I have ever seen, she seems well trained. Protective but not vicious, house broke, stays right beside me,
likes to chase a toy and brings it back, I have 6 chiwowa's and she dosent get bothered by them. I found her close to the Dawson Forest. She seems like a brindal lab, contact me for more info.
|Posted by Herron Farms on September 14, 2012 at 6:50 PM||comments (0)|
45th Annual Mountain Moonshine Festivalsm
October 27 & 28, 2012
|Posted by Herron Farms on May 3, 2012 at 8:00 AM||comments (0)|
I can ship just about anything, except rabbits. The only way that I have found is very expensive and prohibitive, as in avg. 500-1500 and to me, that just makes no sense. The postal service will not ship rabbits.
I have had people drive from all over, tx. mi. fl.nc.sc.tn.al. and all over Ga. Makes me feel bad.
Now about these rabbits, they are not "registered rabbits" they are pure blood rabbits, and I have "pedigree's" for them. They come from a line of Grand champs and Registered rabbits.
The trail to get a rabbit is a fairly long one. take a look at the ARBA page. they have to be shown and win several "legs" to even be considered. Then you take the rabbits to a judge of your choice and pay a small fee for them to examine the rabbit. and then the tat. the right ear.
Then, you typically "breed" that rabbit, and sell the off spring, but never the Registered rabbit, that is your money maker. Once the rabbit has a registration number tattoo'ed in his right ear, any one can look up the numbers, and see the info. on that rabbit.
By being a member of ARBA, I am able to buy stamps and pedigree books, I am also able to fill out the pedigree's under penalty for lie's. But the pedigree is no more than a "linage" of that animal, It is up to you to turn the rabbit into a Grand champ.
Hope that helped some.
|Posted by Herron Farms on April 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM||comments (0)|
a certified organic fertilizer made my millions of earthworms, proven effective in independent university research and accepted by professional vegetable growers, ornamental growers, orchardists, and landscapers. Both organic and conventional growers find excellent results using Worm castings as a component of germination mix and potting mix, as a transplant fertilizer, and as a top dressing for container plants or raised beds. They find that Herron's worm castings works on anything that grows, including vegetables, flowers, fruit trees, grapevines, shrubs, container plants, and turf.
|Posted by Herron Farms on April 15, 2012 at 6:15 PM||comments (0)|
Diatomaceous Earth - Organic pest control
Diatomaceous Earth is a natural, organic insect killer. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action and not by chemical so there is NO harm to pets or humans. The tiny hard and sharp diatoms scratch off the insects waxy coating, causing it to dehydrate.
Use Diatomaceous Earth for control of roaches, silverfish, ants, fire ants, bedbugs, lice, mites, spiders, earwigs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, crabs(std), Pubic and hair Lice, scorpions, crickets, and many other insects. Diatomaceous Earth can be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. Sprinkle a 2 inch wide border around the foundation of your house to prevent insects from entering.
Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms.
A Word About BEDBUGS
All over the United States we are seeing an outbreak of bedbugs. DE will not only kill the bedbugs you have, but will do it safely without chemicals. Remember-bed bugs cannot fly, so make sure bed is away from the wall and there is no bedding touching the floor. Surround each of the 4 legs of the bed with DE--this will kill them as they try to get on the bed the only way possible. Dust some DE on the matress and bedding--especially in the creases. Dust DE in the carpets and in corners of room. Remove electrical outlet covers and puff some DE inside the walls. The "Pest Pistol" works great for this. Keep this routine up for several days untill no more bed bugs.
Pubic Lice(Crabs) and Hair Lice: Dust Diatomaceous Earth on all areas of the body that are infested with the Lice (Crabs). Dust your bedding and rooms you have been in with DE also.
For control of aphids, white fly, beetles, loopers, mites, snails, slugs, leaf hoppers, and others, use Diatomaceous Earth inside your home, greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass, up to and including day of harvest. For dry application of Diatomaceous Earth use a duster and cover entire plant, apply to both top and bottom of leaf. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lbs. per acre is probably sufficient. Diatomaceous Earth will need reapplication after a rain. Applies best when there is dew or after a light rain. It is a long lasting, effective powder. The insects can not build up resistance. DE can be sprayed or whitewashed by mixing 1 cup DE with 1/2 Gallon of water. Stir frequently and spray/paint trees, yards, and fences. Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms. Wear a dust mask when applying large amounts of it.
Just add 7-10 lbs. of Diatomaceous Earth to each ton of grain as it is conveyed into the storage. When added to grain, it not only makes it flow better, Diatomaceous Earth kills the bugs that are present and protects the grain from further invasions. Bugs can not become immune because they are killed by physical action, not chemical.
Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga.30534
|Posted by Herron Farms on April 15, 2012 at 6:15 PM||comments (0)|
At the turn of 1900, Belgian Hares were all the rage in the rabbit world. They were being raised throughout the USA, England, Belgium and Europe. Outstanding individual rabbits were bought and sold for thousands of dollars apiece in those days.
Given the flurry of breeding, it is not surprising that Belgian Hare 'sports' began showing up here and there, rich red and buff-colored rabbits lacking the correct agouti coloration of a normal Belgian Hare.
Breeders took these Belgian Hares and crossed them with Flemish Giants. After a few years, the offspring of such crosses were called Golden Fawns. Golden Fawns have long since become extinct, but not before lending their blood lines to additional crosses back to Belgian Hares to enrich the red color.
Apparently, according to the late John C. Fehr as quoted by Mr. Bob D. Whitman in Domestic Rabbits and their Histories: Breeds of the World, crossing Golden Fawns, Belgian Hares, Belgian Hare sports and Flemish Giants was a logical next step in the minds of at least several breeders from east coast to west. They carried out these crosses simultaneously across America, each possibly unbeknownst to the others.
By 1913, breeders in both Indiana and California presented for show several reddish-fawn-colored, meaty rabbits that still retained a Belgian Hare stance on the show table. Despite the origins at different ends of the nation, the rabbits were similar in appearance, though the California rabbits were better in meat qualities. Both strains of 'New Zealands' were together America’s first New Zealand Red Rabbits.
While most breeders were calling their new breed of rabbits New Zealands, some breeders favored the title of California Reds, or American Reds, even entering them in shows under these alternate names.
So, if these are American-bred, why are they called New Zealand Red Rabbits??
That is thanks to a booklet written in 1918 by Mr. C.P.Gilmore, titled "The New Zealand Red Rabbit." The author mentioned some New Zealand rabbits that were imported from New Zealand to both San Francisco and to Los Angeles. These imported rabbits would eventually be identified with the new, American, New Zealand Red breed, despite the muddy connection.
Mr. Gilmore’s story may or may not have been true. We are guessing that probably some rabbits from New Zealand did show up in California. Nevertheless, that the New Zealand Red Rabbit is a concoction of American breeders is not in question. What IS true, is that the New Zealand Red Rabbits bred in California were frequently some of the best representatives of the breed for many of the early years (1906 - 1925). It is possibly due to the New Zealand-to-California rumor and the excellence of California-bred New Zealands that the name, ‘New Zealand Red Rabbits’ stuck.
As more New Zealands hit the show table and breeders began to form local and national clubs, a vote on an official name was finally taken. Possible names on the ballot were narrowed to:
The count was 10-1 in favor of New Zealands. The year of the vote was 1916, and the name became official, regardless of the actual origins of the breed.
The Belgian Hare boom began to wane. New Zealand Reds easily and quickly stepped into the vacancy, perhaps because of their overall versatility. New Zealand Reds began to be everywhere across the USA.
The New Zealand Rabbit boom, including Reds, continues today. New Zealand Red Rabbits are one of FOUR varieties of New Zealand rabbits recognized by the ARBA:
New Zealand Reds are excellent meat rabbits.
Senior bucks weigh 9-11 pounds
Senior does weigh 10-12 pounds.
New Zealand Red rabbits are a distinctive, "bright reddish sorrel, but should not give any 'brown' impression. The belly is somewhat lighter, even deep creamy in color, but never white. The eyes are brown.
|Posted by Herron Farms on April 1, 2012 at 2:50 PM||comments (0)|
4-8 cups Herron Farms Organic Earthworm Castings
¼ cup sulfur free molasses
1 Tbsp water soluble sea plant extract-kelp or seaweed
2 Tbsp soluble fish powder or liquid fish emultion
4+ gallons Chlorine free water / rainwater
(Note: If you have chlorinated water, fill your pail and let it sit overnight uncovered, and the chlorine will evaporate. Alternatively, accelerate the process by putting the water in your brewer and turning the bubbler on. You will know the chlorine is gone when you cannot smell the chlorine anymore – probably in as short a time as 20-30 minutes. You can verify the absence of chlorine by purchasing a simple chlorine test kit from a local pool supplier.)
Tea Brewer components:
Min. 5 gallon plastic pail, bucket or barrel
Air pump with air stone or some other air dispersal device (remember: small bubbles are superior).
Sieve (a 5 gal. paint bucket filter works well)
Elastic band or a twist-tie to close the Sieve
First, ensure that all components are clean and there are no buildups or areas of your brewer that will prevent the circulation of air and water. (If the stone builds up residue just soak it overnight in pure white vinegar).
In a 5 gallon pail, fill with 4 gallons or so of warm water with the molasses, seaweed extract, and liquid fish. Turn on the pump with the hose and stone attached before placing the stone into the solution. Leave the pump running when removing the stone from the brew to keep water from entering the stone.
Place the air-stone or other bubbler at the bottom of the pail. For best results, ust the ‘open brew’ approach by placing the Barefoot Soil Organic Earthworm Castings directly into the water. (You can always strain the castings later if you are going to use a sprayer for the Teas’ application.) Alternatively, put the BFS Organic Earthworm Castings into the sieve and place it into the pail over the bubbler.
Brew until a noticeable frothy slime (“bio-slime”) develops on the surface of the water and the smell of the ingredients is very weak or no longer present. The absence of noticeable fish and molasses odor indicates that the microorganisms have consumed the ingredients! Once the food is gone the populations will begin to decrease. On warm summer days, you can begin a brew in the evening, and the tea will be ready for application the next morning. We find brewing is complete in as little as 12 hours if the brew is kept warm. Hence, brew times are heavily dependent on the water temperature. With every 10 degree F drop in temperature, brew times increase by 12 hours.
Be sure to keep the tea aerobic by leaving the bubbler on until you use the tea since cutting off the oxygen supply will down spike the population and diversity.
While brewing, the population of beneficial microorganisms will be doubling in as little as every 20 minutes. By the end of the brew, your solution can contain over one billion little critters per teaspoon of tea!
Apply the tea when the populations of microorganisms are at their highest number and diversity. Spray the tea onto foliage, stems, roots and surrounding soil, or simply pour it onto you plants and vegetation. Remember, Castings Tea Everything! Spray early morning or in the evening or in the shade, not in the sunshine.
When you are finished, use the left over castings for your soil amendment needs. Do not discard them! These castings should have higher population densities than what you started with, because remember, you brewed an exceedingly large population, and they will adhere to the castings!
Herron Farms, Dawsonville 706-531-4789