Herron Farms Worm Chow

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Sorry, But due to 2 bad winters, we are not shipping worms this year, till spring.

Posted by Herron Farms on December 11, 2014 at 5:30 AM Comments comments (0)

Sorry, But due to 2 bad winters, we are not shipping worms this year, till spring.

http://herronfarms.wordpress.com/

Posted by Herron Farms on October 9, 2013 at 3:50 AM Comments comments (0)

also take a look at http://herronfarms.wordpress.com/


a pound, a yard or a ton of worm castings

Posted by Herron Farms on August 17, 2013 at 12:00 PM Comments comments (0)

 I am always tickled by the people that call and ask for the price on a truck load of worm castings. Most of these people are well educated people, great gardeners and just looking to save money.........

Problem is, I then have to spend about an hour or more, explaining why they don't need a pickup truck full. Let me try to explain, please overlook the typo's and spelling as I am not a journalist.

For starters, most "real" worm farms in Ga. may produce a yard or even two per year, of castings. If they claim to have tons and tons of castings(worms crap), red flags and sirens should go off. Didn't they use any on their own yard and garden, why not.

I am not saying they are ling to you, just do the math....if you have 60 beds, with 10,000 worms in each one about 60,000 worms, and you harvest them every 30 days. You will get at most 30 buckets of castings...........that is a pretty good bit, maybe even a 1/3 of a yard, providing you don't use any or sell any then logically in 3 months you would have a yard. But that's only one sale of one yard, once it is gone you wouldn't have any left. There is only about 6 good harvest months out of the year in Ga. because of temp. and weather.

60 beds full of worms is a fair size, lets double it to 120,000 worms and I only know about 6 in Ga. that have that many or more. The math would say you could possibly in a perfect world, under perfect conditions, not selling any worms or castings for 6 months, you might get 4 yards of castings.

Keep in mind, with that many worms, and that much harvesting, feeding and watering, you would have to have at least 2 and likely 4 people or more helping with the up keep.

Don't get me wrong, there are a few worm farms that aculy have a yard or two for sale, but you wont find them on Craig's list for 100 per yard.

So, you are asking, how or what are the doing.......well there are lots of things, basically sifting compost. And or uneaten vermicompost.

I prefer to see the GLOW on a persons face, when they show me pictures of their, huge and bountiful crops.

and another thing.........................................the magic of worm castings.......................is....................

you only need a pound, one pound of castings will make 50 gallons of (fertilizer/tea) And that is alot of tea........................

Fertilizer is the wrong word, when you apply 10-10-10 or other fertilizers, you kill all the live organisms in your garden, raised bed or yard and give them a synthetic vitamin shot, when you eat the fruits or veggies, that is what you are eating, but what is worse.....the soil is dead and lets in all the bad micro organisms, organisms, bugs and other bad things.

When you use worm tea made from worm castings, you are doing just like 03-03-03 and can do it over and over with out burning, organic, so when you eat your bounty that is what it is. and the soil is ALIVE, with millions and millions of micro organisms killing anything bad. That is their food.....that's just the start......next year will be even better, and the next even better and so on. not at all like a fertilizer that you must apply over and over. Yes you can re apply tea over and over, but once your yard and garden comes back to life, it will maintain itself. this is the first year I have had so many tomato s, not one had brown spot, the list is endless.. I have only be totally free of all synthetics for 2 years.

back to the point, you dont need a ton of castings. that is the magic.......and there IS, a difference in castings, type, age, worms used, feed used for the worms and more......

This post is copyrighted, feel free to copy and paste as long as you include my name and webpage.

Tim Herron http://www.herronfarms.webs.com

Found Dog, Big Canoe, Dawson, Pickens, Forsyth

Posted by Herron Farms on March 23, 2013 at 6:10 AM Comments comments (0)

I was out in the wildcat creek tract the other day, and came across a dog......Not just any dog, this dog was tied to a log, right at the exact spot my gps had led me, I was on a totally different quest. The dog was left, tied to a huge log, but got loose, there was an empty bag of dog food (new bag) close to her, no water. knowing better, I brought her home with me anyway. Turns out to be one of the best dog's I have ever seen, she seems well trained. Protective but not vicious, house broke, stays right beside me,

likes to chase a toy and brings it back, I have 6 chiwowa's and she dosent get bothered by them. I found her close to the Dawson Forest. She seems like a brindal lab, contact me for more info.

 

45th Annual Mountain Moonshine Festivalsm October 27 & 28, 2012

Posted by Herron Farms on September 14, 2012 at 6:50 PM Comments comments (0)

45th Annual Mountain Moonshine Festivalsm

October 27 & 28, 2012

http://www.kareforkids.us/festival.html

Worm Castings

Posted by Herron Farms on April 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM Comments comments (0)

a certified organic fertilizer made my millions of earthworms, proven effective in independent university research and accepted by professional vegetable growers, ornamental growers, orchardists, and landscapers. Both organic and conventional growers find excellent results using Worm castings as a component of germination mix and potting mix, as a transplant fertilizer, and as a top dressing for container plants or raised beds. They find that Herron's worm castings works on anything that grows, including vegetables, flowers, fruit trees, grapevines, shrubs, container plants, and turf.

 

New Zealand Red Rabbits

Posted by Herron Farms on April 15, 2012 at 6:15 PM Comments comments (0)

At the turn of 1900, Belgian Hares were all the rage in the rabbit world. They were being raised throughout the USA, England, Belgium and Europe. Outstanding individual rabbits were bought and sold for thousands of dollars apiece in those days.

Given the flurry of breeding, it is not surprising that Belgian Hare 'sports' began showing up here and there, rich red and buff-colored rabbits lacking the correct agouti coloration of a normal Belgian Hare.

Breeders took these Belgian Hares and crossed them with Flemish Giants. After a few years, the offspring of such crosses were called Golden Fawns. Golden Fawns have long since become extinct, but not before lending their blood lines to additional crosses back to Belgian Hares to enrich the red color.

Apparently, according to the late John C. Fehr as quoted by Mr. Bob D. Whitman in Domestic Rabbits and their Histories: Breeds of the World, crossing Golden Fawns, Belgian Hares, Belgian Hare sports and Flemish Giants was a logical next step in the minds of at least several breeders from east coast to west. They carried out these crosses simultaneously across America, each possibly unbeknownst to the others.

By 1913, breeders in both Indiana and California presented for show several reddish-fawn-colored, meaty rabbits that still retained a Belgian Hare stance on the show table. Despite the origins at different ends of the nation, the rabbits were similar in appearance, though the California rabbits were better in meat qualities. Both strains of 'New Zealands' were together America’s first New Zealand Red Rabbits.

While most breeders were calling their new breed of rabbits New Zealands, some breeders favored the title of California Reds, or American Reds, even entering them in shows under these alternate names.

So, if these are American-bred, why are they called New Zealand Red Rabbits??

That is thanks to a booklet written in 1918 by Mr. C.P.Gilmore, titled "The New Zealand Red Rabbit." The author mentioned some New Zealand rabbits that were imported from New Zealand to both San Francisco and to Los Angeles. These imported rabbits would eventually be identified with the new, American, New Zealand Red breed, despite the muddy connection.

Mr. Gilmore’s story may or may not have been true. We are guessing that probably some rabbits from New Zealand did show up in California. Nevertheless, that the New Zealand Red Rabbit is a concoction of American breeders is not in question. What IS true, is that the New Zealand Red Rabbits bred in California were frequently some of the best representatives of the breed for many of the early years (1906 - 1925). It is possibly due to the New Zealand-to-California rumor and the excellence of California-bred New Zealands that the name, ‘New Zealand Red Rabbits’ stuck.

As more New Zealands hit the show table and breeders began to form local and national clubs, a vote on an official name was finally taken. Possible names on the ballot were narrowed to:

•New Zealand

•American Reds

The count was 10-1 in favor of New Zealands. The year of the vote was 1916, and the name became official, regardless of the actual origins of the breed.

The Belgian Hare boom began to wane. New Zealand Reds easily and quickly stepped into the vacancy, perhaps because of their overall versatility. New Zealand Reds began to be everywhere across the USA.

The New Zealand Rabbit boom, including Reds, continues today. New Zealand Red Rabbits are one of FOUR varieties of New Zealand rabbits recognized by the ARBA:

•Red

•White

•Black

•Broken

New Zealand Reds are excellent meat rabbits.

Senior bucks weigh 9-11 pounds

Senior does weigh 10-12 pounds.

New Zealand Red rabbits are a distinctive, "bright reddish sorrel, but should not give any 'brown' impression. The belly is somewhat lighter, even deep creamy in color, but never white. The eyes are brown.

European Night Crawlers

Posted by Herron Farms on May 1, 2011 at 7:11 AM Comments comments (0)

Worm Facts

The Dendrobaena Worm, full name Dendrobaena veneta (also known as the European night crawler & Eisenia hortensis), is a very tough and particularly wriggly worm, making them ideal as worms for fishing. They are surface feeders who are sensitive to light. The worms' eagerness to escape light is what makes them squirm so much in daylight. To ensure that you don't find your bucket of worms empty, you need to keep the lid on in the dark.

The Dendrobaena worm has the ability to consume large amounts of vegetable matter, up to half their body weight a day. A sexually mature Dendrobaena weighs anything from 1 to 2.5+ grams.

The temperature range at which the Dendrobaena thrives, that is breeds, is between 12 to 18 degrees Celsius. In warmer temperatures, their metabolism increases so they eat more food in warmer temperatures, up to 25 degrees Celsius. If the temperature raises too much above this they can get very stressed and will die at high temperatures. Therefore if you have a portable wormery it needs to be kept in the shade in the summer months and in the sun in the winter months, or even indoors. Moisture is very important as worms need it to breathe through their skin, although do not drown them. In ideal conditions, a single worm will produce approximately 2 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 1 worm taking anything from 40 to 128 days to hatch. Dendrobaenas take 57 to 86 days to reach sexual maturity.

 

Watch the worms wriggle:

You need not worry about any escapees as Dendrobaenas are indigenous to this country and are a friendly lot, posing no threat to any other earthworms.

Recently we have heard a lot of talk about the Tiger worm versus the Dendrobeana worm and their suitability for composting your kitchen scraps. To be fair we have decided to put together some facts about the Tiger worms so that you can make up your minds for yourselves.

Being Dendrobaena worm farmers we know how successful Dendrobaenas are and the hundreds of tonnes of food that they get through on our farm. Being livestock farmers we are also familiar with the Tiger worm which can be found in any partially composted dung/compost heap.

The Tiger worm to a certain degree is a myth, it obviously exists but is not a distinct breed as is commonly thought. The scientific name is Eisenia foetida, also known as Redworm, Red Wiggler, Brandlings or Manure Worm amongst other names. It was the distinct banding that developed when the worms were farmed in a single medium, paper pulp, that led them to be named tiger worms. On entering an environment different to that in which they are bred, they tend to go wandering due to the shock of the environmental change. We get these small wild worms entering our worm beds. For this reason we only use the outdoor beds for breeding composting worms. If worms are ordered for fishing we only use pure dendrobaenas bred indoors to prevent contamination by the smaller worms not appropriate for fishing. This infiltration of Redworms into our beds has enabled us to see the advantages of Dendrobaenas in wormery like conditions i.e. the larger Dendrobaenas aerate the beds better and prefer wetter conditions often found in wormeries.

Like the Dendrobaena, the Tiger worm is an Epigeic worm, i.e. they live on the surface of the soil or in the top 6 inches or so of the topsoil under the litter layer. Both are indigenous to this country. Both worms can tolerate temperatures from 3 to 27 degrees celsius. Our Dendrobeanas have survived snowfall and frosts on our outdoor beds without any insulation! Worms will burrow down to protect themselves. A single Tiger worm will produce approximately 2-4 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 2 worms taking anything from 32 to 73 days to hatch. Tigers take 53 to 76 days to reach sexual maturity. As a guide, in ideal conditions, you can expect to double the weight of your Tiger worm population in 3-4 months.

The Tiger is supposed to eat up to its own weight in food each day, its weight being from 0.5 to 1 gram. However we have found that Tiger worms eat no more, if not less, weight for weight than dendrobaenas.

We do not have a surplus of worms to shift, in fact we have to work extremely hard to meet demand. It would be far easier for us to supply less worms with our wormeries (and cheaper), but we continue to provide 1kg of worms as we know that this amount gives our customers the best chance of making their wormeries a success.

We have done our own trials in controlled conditions, feeding the same amount of food to two large trays of worms. One tray contained dendrobaena worms and the other contained an identical weight of tigers. At the end of the trail the tiger worms had bred more but the dendrobaenas had eaten more food and had produced a greater quantity and quality of wormcast i.e. the compost was broken down better and was much finer.

In summary, both Dendrobaenas and Tigers are effective composting worms. However we have found Dendrobaenas ideally suited to wormery conditions because they like wetter conditions, will tolerate slightly acidic conditions better and being larger and more robust they are more efficient at aerating the compost. This is handy as the natural composting process can cause your wormery to become acidic should you overfeed or forget to neutralise the PH of your wormery with eggshells or lime.

Tiger worms do breed faster than dendrobaenas.

In our experience of breeding the two types of worms in controlled conditions, Dendrobaenas digest waste quicker and more efficiently than tiger worms producing quality wormcast at a much faster rate.

© Bucket of Worms; Web Design by Julie

European crawlers

Posted by Herron Farms on December 9, 2010 at 2:00 PM Comments comments (0)

Worm Facts

The Dendrobaena Worm, full name Dendrobaena veneta (also known as the European night crawler & Eisenia hortensis), is a very tough and particularly wriggly worm, making them ideal as worms for fishing. They are surface feeders who are sensitive to light. The worms' eagerness to escape light is what makes them squirm so much in daylight. To ensure that you don't find your bucket of worms empty, you need to keep the lid on in the dark.

The Dendrobaena worm has the ability to consume large amounts of vegetable matter, up to half their body weight a day. A sexually mature Dendrobaena weighs anything from 1 to 2.5+ grams.

The temperature range at which the Dendrobaena thrives, that is breeds, is between 12 to 18 degrees Celsius. In warmer temperatures, their metabolism increases so they eat more food in warmer temperatures, up to 25 degrees Celsius. If the temperature raises too much above this they can get very stressed and will die at high temperatures. Therefore if you have a portable wormery it needs to be kept in the shade in the summer months and in the sun in the winter months, or even indoors. Moisture is very important as worms need it to breathe through their skin, although do not drown them. In ideal conditions, a single worm will produce approximately 2 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 1 worm taking anything from 40 to 128 days to hatch. Dendrobaenas take 57 to 86 days to reach sexual maturity.

 

Watch the worms wriggle:

You need not worry about any escapees as Dendrobaenas are indigenous to this country and are a friendly lot, posing no threat to any other earthworms.

Recently we have heard a lot of talk about the Tiger worm versus the Dendrobeana worm and their suitability for composting your kitchen scraps. To be fair we have decided to put together some facts about the Tiger worms so that you can make up your minds for yourselves.

Being Dendrobaena worm farmers we know how successful Dendrobaenas are and the hundreds of tonnes of food that they get through on our farm. Being livestock farmers we are also familiar with the Tiger worm which can be found in any partially composted dung/compost heap.

The Tiger worm to a certain degree is a myth, it obviously exists but is not a distinct breed as is commonly thought. The scientific name is Eisenia foetida, also known as Redworm, Red Wiggler, Brandlings or Manure Worm amongst other names. It was the distinct banding that developed when the worms were farmed in a single medium, paper pulp, that led them to be named tiger worms. On entering an environment different to that in which they are bred, they tend to go wandering due to the shock of the environmental change. We get these small wild worms entering our worm beds. For this reason we only use the outdoor beds for breeding composting worms. If worms are ordered for fishing we only use pure dendrobaenas bred indoors to prevent contamination by the smaller worms not appropriate for fishing. This infiltration of Redworms into our beds has enabled us to see the advantages of Dendrobaenas in wormery like conditions i.e. the larger Dendrobaenas aerate the beds better and prefer wetter conditions often found in wormeries.

Like the Dendrobaena, the Tiger worm is an Epigeic worm, i.e. they live on the surface of the soil or in the top 6 inches or so of the topsoil under the litter layer. Both are indigenous to this country. Both worms can tolerate temperatures from 3 to 27 degrees celsius. Our Dendrobeanas have survived snowfall and frosts on our outdoor beds without any insulation! Worms will burrow down to protect themselves. A single Tiger worm will produce approximately 2-4 young per week. Cocoons are laid which normally contain 2 worms taking anything from 32 to 73 days to hatch. Tigers take 53 to 76 days to reach sexual maturity. As a guide, in ideal conditions, you can expect to double the weight of your Tiger worm population in 3-4 months.

The Tiger is supposed to eat up to its own weight in food each day, its weight being from 0.5 to 1 gram. However we have found that Tiger worms eat no more, if not less, weight for weight than dendrobaenas.

We do not have a surplus of worms to shift, in fact we have to work extremely hard to meet demand. It would be far easier for us to supply less worms with our wormeries (and cheaper), but we continue to provide 1kg of worms as we know that this amount gives our customers the best chance of making their wormeries a success.

We have done our own trials in controlled conditions, feeding the same amount of food to two large trays of worms. One tray contained dendrobaena worms and the other contained an identical weight of tigers. At the end of the trail the tiger worms had bred more but the dendrobaenas had eaten more food and had produced a greater quantity and quality of wormcast i.e. the compost was broken down better and was much finer.

In summary, both Dendrobaenas and Tigers are effective composting worms. However we have found Dendrobaenas ideally suited to wormery conditions because they like wetter conditions, will tolerate slightly acidic conditions better and being larger and more robust they are more efficient at aerating the compost. This is handy as the natural composting process can cause your wormery to become acidic should you overfeed or forget to neutralise the PH of your wormery with eggshells or lime.

Tiger worms do breed faster than dendrobaenas.

In our experience of breeding the two types of worms in controlled conditions, Dendrobaenas digest waste quicker and more efficiently than tiger worms producing quality wormcast at a much faster rate.

© Bucket of Worms; Web Design by Julie

Diatomaceous Earth - Organic pest control

Posted by Herron Farms on August 31, 2010 at 5:04 AM Comments comments (2)

Diatomaceous Earth - Organic pest control

Household Pests:

Diatomaceous Earth is a natural, organic insect killer. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action and not by chemical so there is NO harm to pets or humans. The tiny hard and sharp diatoms scratch off the insects waxy coating, causing it to dehydrate.

Use Diatomaceous Earth for control of roaches, silverfish, ants, fire ants, bedbugs, lice, mites, spiders, earwigs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, crabs(std), Pubic and hair Lice, scorpions, crickets, and many other insects. Diatomaceous Earth can be used in and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. Sprinkle a 2 inch wide border around the foundation of your house to prevent insects from entering.

Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms.

A Word About BEDBUGS

All over the United States we are seeing an outbreak of bedbugs. DE will not only kill the bedbugs you have, but will do it safely without chemicals. Remember-bed bugs cannot fly, so make sure bed is away from the wall and there is no bedding touching the floor. Surround each of the 4 legs of the bed with DE--this will kill them as they try to get on the bed the only way possible. Dust some DE on the matress and bedding--especially in the creases. Dust DE in the carpets and in corners of room. Remove electrical outlet covers and puff some DE inside the walls. The "Pest Pistol" works great for this. Keep this routine up for several days untill no more bed bugs.

Pubic Lice(Crabs) and Hair Lice: Dust Diatomaceous Earth on all areas of the body that are infested with the Lice (Crabs). Dust your bedding and rooms you have been in with DE also.

Plant Pests:

For control of aphids, white fly, beetles, loopers, mites, snails, slugs, leaf hoppers, and others, use Diatomaceous Earth inside your home, greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass, up to and including day of harvest. For dry application of Diatomaceous Earth use a duster and cover entire plant, apply to both top and bottom of leaf. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lbs. per acre is probably sufficient. Diatomaceous Earth will need reapplication after a rain. Applies best when there is dew or after a light rain. It is a long lasting, effective powder. The insects can not build up resistance. DE can be sprayed or whitewashed by mixing 1 cup DE with 1/2 Gallon of water. Stir frequently and spray/paint trees, yards, and fences. Diatomaceous Earth will not harm earthworms or beneficial soil microorganisms. Wear a dust mask when applying large amounts of it.

Stored Grain:

Just add 7-10 lbs. of Diatomaceous Earth to each ton of grain as it is conveyed into the storage. When added to grain, it not only makes it flow better, Diatomaceous Earth kills the bugs that are present and protects the grain from further invasions. Bugs can not become immune because they are killed by physical action, not chemical.

Herron Farms Dawsonville Ga.30534